How to Choose an Abaya

A guide to fabrics, fit, styles and separate abaya overlays


Three women wearing a black hooded abaya, an olive embellished abaya and a black abaya with gold trim in a courtyard.

Choosing an abaya starts with finding the right balance of coverage, comfort and personal style. The fabric, length and cut all affect how it feels, while features such as pockets, hoods and front openings can make it more practical for everyday wear.

This guide explains the main features to consider when buying an abaya, including how to use a separately purchased abaya overlay to refresh an outfit you already own.



What is an Abaya?

An abaya is a long, loose-fitting garment worn by many Muslim women as part of their modest wardrobe. Abayas come in different styles, including closed designs, open-front designs and zip-front options.

An abaya can be plain or embellished, lightweight or warm, depending on its fabric and construction. Black is a familiar choice, but abayas are also available in many other colours.

You may also see the word written as abayah. Both spellings refer to the same type of garment.



What Should You Look for When Buying an Abaya?

When choosing an abaya, check these five details:

  • Fabric: Consider its weight, opacity, fibre content and suitability for the weather.
  • Fit: Allow enough room for comfortable movement and any clothing underneath.
  • Length: Choose a length that works with your height and footwear without dragging.
  • Design: Decide whether you prefer a closed, open-front or zip-front style.
  • Practical features: Look for details you will use, such as pockets, a hood or easy-care fabric.

The most suitable abaya is one that fits your routine as well as your preferred appearance.



Which Abaya Style Should You Choose?


Four women in a courtyard wearing a black abaya with gold trim, a brown striped abaya, a black hooded fleece abaya and a black zipped fleece abaya.

Closed Abayas

A closed abaya has a front that does not open fully, making it a straightforward choice for an everyday outfit. Check the neckline and any fastenings to make sure it is easy to put on and remove.

You can keep the look simple with a coordinating scarf or add a separate overlay for a different finish.


Open-Front Abayas

An open-front abaya is designed to be worn over suitable clothing. Depending on the design, it may have fastenings or be intended to remain open.

When styling an open abaya, consider the coverage provided by the complete outfit, including the neckline, sleeves and length of the clothing underneath.


Zip-Front Abayas

A zip-front abaya provides an adjustable front opening. Some designs have a full-length zip, while others open only part of the way.

Check the product description if a fully opening front is a feature you need.


A-Line Abayas

An A-line abaya gradually widens towards the hem. This creates a gently flared shape with more room around the lower part of the garment.

Check the shoulder, chest and sleeve measurements as well as the shape of the skirt to ensure a comfortable fit.


Hooded Abayas

A hooded abaya adds a practical detail to a relaxed outfit. In thicker fabrics such as fleece, it can provide an additional layer of warmth during cooler weather.

If you plan to wear layers underneath, choose a fit that allows comfortable movement through the shoulders and arms



How to Choose an Abaya Fabric


A close up of a burgundy front zip abaya.

Fabric affects an abaya’s warmth, coverage, drape and care requirements. Look beyond the fabric name and check the product’s description, composition and lining information where available.


Lightweight Abayas for Warmer Weather

A lighter abaya can be comfortable in warmer conditions, but thin fabric is not necessarily breathable or opaque. Fibre content, weave and construction all matter.

Check whether the garment needs an underlayer, especially in lighter colours. Several layers may feel warmer than you expect, so consider the whole outfit when choosing.


Flowing and Textured Fabrics

Flowing fabrics create a soft drape, while textured fabrics add visual interest to a simple design. A crinkle finish, for example, can give a plain abaya a more distinctive appearance without heavy decoration.

If you are choosing an abaya for an occasion, consider how the fabric moves and how comfortably it sits when you walk or sit down.


Fleece Abayas for Winter

A thick fleece abaya can add warmth during colder weather. Depending on the design, it may include a hood, side pockets, front pockets or a zip opening.

For winter wear in the UK, think about how it will fit with your usual layers and coat. Fleece warmth does not automatically mean a garment is waterproof; check the stated features if you need protection from the weather.



How Should an Abaya Fit?

An abaya should allow you to walk, sit and move your arms comfortably while providing your preferred coverage

Sizing differs between retailers. Some abayas use length-based sizes, while others use labels such as small, medium, large or XL. Always check the individual size guide rather than assuming that the same size will fit across every style.

Before ordering, compare:

  • Garment length with an abaya you already wear comfortably.
  • Chest and hip measurements with the room you need for a loose fit.
  • Shoulder width and sleeve measurements with your usual clothing.
  • Overall fit with any layers you intend to wear underneath.

Check whether the size guide gives body measurements or the measurements of the finished garment, as these are different.



What Is a Separate Abaya Overlay?

A separate abaya overlay is an additional outer layer purchased independently and worn over an existing abaya. It changes the appearance of the outfit without requiring you to buy an abaya with an overlay already stitched onto it.

Overlays vary in length, shape, fabric and decoration. Some offer a subtle extra layer, while others introduce a more noticeable colour, texture or embellished finish.



Why Buy an Abaya Overlay Separately?

A separate overlay gives you more ways to wear the abayas you already own. You can add it when you want a more decorative outfit and remove it when you prefer a simpler look.

A compatible overlay may also work with several abayas in your wardrobe. This makes it a useful option for creating different combinations without buying a complete new outfit for each occasion.



How to Choose an Overlay for Your Abaya

Check the overlay’s measurements and construction before buying. It should sit comfortably over the abaya without pulling at the shoulders, restricting the sleeves or gathering awkwardly.

Consider:

  • Length: Decide how the overlay should sit in relation to the abaya’s hem.
  • Fit: Allow enough space for both garments.
  • Colour: Choose a matching shade, a complementary colour or a deliberate contrast.
  • Detail: Balance decorative overlays with simpler abayas.
  • Coverage: A sheer or open overlay relies on the garment underneath to provide coverage.

An overlay does not need to have been sold with your abaya to work well with it, but the proportions and fit should complement each other.

An navy outerlayer with white embellishment worn on a abaya


How to Style an Abaya

Start with the abaya’s colour and level of detail, then choose a scarf and footwear that suit the occasion.

A patterned scarf can add interest to a plain abaya. For an embellished abaya or decorative overlay, a simpler scarf can help the details stand out.

For everyday wear, prioritise comfortable movement and footwear that works with the hem length. For an occasion, a separate overlay can refresh a familiar abaya while allowing you to keep a fit you already enjoy wearing.



How to Care for an Abaya and Overlay

Always follow each garment’s care label. An abaya and a separately purchased overlay may have different washing, drying and ironing requirements.

Take particular care with beading, trims and delicate fabrics. Do not assume that both pieces can be washed together simply because they are worn as one outfit.



Frequently Asked Questions About Abayas


A woman choosing an abaya from a selection on a clothing rail.

What is the difference between an abaya and an abaya overlay?

An abaya is the main long, loose-fitting garment. An overlay is an additional layer worn over it to change the outfit’s appearance. Some overlays are attached to an abaya, while others are purchased separately.


Can you buy an overlay for an abaya you already own?

Yes. Separate abaya overlays can be worn over existing abayas. Check the length, shoulder fit and sleeve shape to make sure the two garments sit comfortably together.


Does an abaya have to be black?

No. Abayas are available in many colours. Choose a shade that suits your preferences and works with the scarves and other pieces you enjoy wearing.


What do you wear under an open abaya?

Wear clothing that provides your preferred coverage when the abaya opens or moves. Consider the neckline, sleeves, opacity and length of the complete outfit.


Which abaya is suitable for cold weather?

A thicker fabric, such as fleece, can provide additional warmth. Allow space for layers underneath and check whether you will also need a coat for outdoor conditions.


How do you choose an abaya size online?

Use the retailer’s size guide and compare the measurements with a garment that fits you comfortably. Check the length, chest, hips and sleeves rather than relying only on a size label.